Adjusting the chain on a Hawk

Date: Thu, 3 Apr 1997 17:24:03 -0800
From: Jim Davis
Subject: Adjusting the chain on a Hawk

Hawk People:
[Robert--you wanna put this in Hawkworks, that's fine with me]
I was going to write this about 4 months ago, but haven't had the time.
Since I don't have the time now, I will start by saying that Brother Frank
Santorella's advice is good, and relates to a good method of chain
adjustment. The stock chain adjusting spanner works well in the same
manner, by engaging it with the notch in the eccentric, and pushing it
(gently) with the nut on the sprocket bolt. However, knowing how tight (or
loose, actually) to make the chain is the most often error I've ever seen on
Hawks. Literally 75% of the street ones I've seen have it TOO TIGHT. This
munches the sprockets, wears out the chain, and can be far more catastrophic
that you would think, as it can wear the countershaft and countershaft
bearing and seal badly. I have an example of what NOT to do--a countershaft
that is destroyed from a countershaft sprocket that managed to strip the
retaining clip with a chain that was too tight, and not detected until too
late. Now all it needs is a complete motor teardown and insertion of the
countershaft. I can hardly wait.
The geometry of the hawk countershaft, rear axle, and swingarm pivot dictate
that as the suspension compresses, the chain gets tighter. Therefore, the
chain should be adjusted for proper tension AT FULL SQUAT. To check the
chain tension, it helps to have two people. Not mandatory, but it helps.
Do this by:
1. Soften the preload to 1
2. Put the bike on the sidestand, or better yet, a rear stand. Do NOT use
the centerstand for this excercise.
3. Lay face down across the passenger seat so that your head is on the left
side of the bike, with the seat about mid chest. Tilt the bike so that it
is up off the sidestand, if that's the stand that you are using.
[If on the sidestand, have someone else steady the bike while you do this]
4. Reach down and grab the swingarm underside as near the sprocket as
possible, or right on the cush drive/rear spindle assembly, and pull it
towards you firmly, compressing the suspension. If you're a person of
diminutive stature, you could have your big lunk friend do this part, while
you do the other.
5. While the suspension is as compressed as possible, check the chain
tension. Your helper can do this, since you're usually blue in the face
from straining to compress the suspension.
6. Adjust the chain to reflect a 1" free play while fully compressed, and
you will notice that it seems REALLY loose while the suspension is not
loaded. Oh well.
Don't forget to reset your preload, and tighten the eccentric pinch bolt.
Yeah, yeah, the chain will rub on the slider more 'cause it's so loose, big
deal. It's only under deceleration, and when the suspension is not loaded,
and the part where the chain touches the frame is never under tension, so it
will take approximately forever to cut all the way through, and if you don't
like it, buy one of the neato chain rollers from Vernon Davis (no relation),
Hawkworks will tell you how to reach him.
An alternative to this procedure is to have the two heaviest people you know
sit on the bike while you check the chain tension.
Your chain will last MUCH longer when run at the proper loosness.
Thanks,
jim

At 07:31 PM 4/3/97 -0800, Brother Frank Santorella wrote:
>This is how I do it.
>
> Very large screw driver, with the blade large enough
> that it fits in the slots of the adjuster.
>
> Loosen the pinch bolt, engage the screwdriver tip into
> the slot in the adjuster, holding the screwdriver paralell
> to the ground, rotate the wheel to the rear so that the
> sprocket bolt taps the screwdriver. This will turn the adjuster,
> thus tightening the chain. Tighten the pinch bolt.
>
> A fine adjustment can be had with this method.
>
> Never use a hammer.
>
> Frank
>
>