Installing a CBR900RR shock assembly

From: SMTP%"frank@dsea.com" 8-SEP-1995 12:12:31.16
To: MEL1523
CC:
Subj: CBR900RRRR Shock: Done

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Date: Fri, 8 Sep 1995 10:00:03 -0700
From: Frank Evan Perdicaro
Message-Id: <199509081700.KAA21074@server.eng.dsea.com>
To: HawkGT@dsea.com
Subject: CBR900RRRR Shock: Done
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If sombody was to have said to me "You will notice the difference
right when you roll the bike off the sidestand" or "This is the
best modification for $100. Period." I am sure I would have
responded with "Yeah, its a good mod, but quit the hype."

That was last week. Wow, what a difference!

The install was not as easy as I was lead to think. It is not
hard, but without the right tools it would be a drag. Originally
I was going to use the milling machine here at work. That would
have made the job easy.

Basically, you remove the rear shock. Take off the tire to
make it easy. You need that 8mm hex bit, too.

Then you put the shock in a vice, put a grade 8 bolt through the
bottom eye, and apply spring compressors until you see the 22 mm nut
on the shock rod. Take it off and relax the spring compressor.
Throw out the Hawk shock.

Put the 900RRRR shock in the vice, compress the spring with mostly
the same technique, then be pleasntly suprised by the two-piece
"fall-apart" design of the spring retainer. Take out the shock.

Take it to a drill press. If you have the exact correct metric
drill, use it to drill out the top eye. I think I used a 31/64; it
is a bit sloppy, but not too bad. Use a wrap of carefully sliced
beer can to make a snug fit if you feel you must.

Now wrap the top of the shock body in tape with just the eye
showing. Carefully grind the eye so that the bevel disappears.
You are very close. Check the fit. Grind a bit more and put a new
bevel on. Finish off by producing a taper on the eye with a
bastard file. Take off the tape used to protect the shock from
grinding or filing mistakes.

If you have good hand strength you can assemble the parts by hand.

Bend the fuel line bracket up just about 1/8" by inserting a
screwdriver under it from the left side. Slide the shock in,
with the hose "banjo" on the left. Put the bolt in. Slide the
resivoir between the rear master cylinder and the fuel pump.
Secure with 4 zip ties and tape the zip-ties in place.


Roll bike off centerstand and notice how it gently comes down. No
more whump. Nice and soft. Heck, I have not even fiddled
with the knobs... its just better as it is.

Adjustment is with a #2 straight screwdriver and the stock spring
tool. All are eaisly accessable.


A few notes. The ground may no longer be where it is supposed to
be. After 15,000 miles of riding at one ride height I was a bit
suprised to put out my foot and not find the ground where it had
always been. The side stand is mostly useless, except to keep the
centerstand from hitting the chain if you have a Supertrapp. The
seat angle is now different! One has to go faster to get a good
sail effect. For me it is now an indicated 90mph. Dips on the
highway, Bott's dots and railroad tracks used to be stand up
obstacles. No longer. Wheelie point is now different. Leaned over
in 1st I cranked the throttle and the front wheel came up. In
traffic on the way to work. Due to the increased height, it is now
impossible for my wife to ride the Hawk in traffic. I can now mount
the bike on the centerstand with just one toe.


Frank Evan Perdicaro Dainippon Screen Engineering of America
Legalize guns, drugs and cash...today. 3700 Segerstrom Ave
inhouse: frank@server, x258 Santa Ana CA
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